The last time I was on Stairway was four years ago, the first time I climbed with my then-new friend Mike. We got up to the fifth pitch and it was my turn to lead. So, I started up the first WI5 I had ever attempted. I made it within spitting distance of easier terrain when the row of screws the littered the ice below me and the bad technique that got me to my stance finally added up and I had to throw in the towel. Since then I’ve been thinking about when I would go back up there to try again.
Today, Jen and Jess joined me and we made quick progress to the belay on the top of the fourth where things slowed a bit. The first of the two guys in front of us was doing his best interpretation of my years-ago effort and in the process of bailing. Then the second guy got up to his high point, made a couple moves and then took a lead fall right back to the base of the pillar. It was the first time I’ve ever seen someone whip off an ice pitch, and honestly it was much less dramatic than I had expected it to be. It did, however, take the wind out of my sails a bit while I waited for my turn to lead.
When things finally cleared out I got my chance for redemption. It was really nice to feel comfortable on something that had been a notch beyond my limit the last time I tried it.
