Haagenschlong

The Haagenschlong is one of the most interesting towers I’ve climbed. It’s not a lone formation in the middle of nowhere, looming over a desert landscape. It’s tucked up against a long cliff line, hidden from view unless you see it at just the right angle. While it’s almost completely devoid of cracks, it’s also close enough to the main cliff that you can stem between the two—allowing the second pitch to go at a casual 5.9 instead of the bolt ladder or hooking horror show that would definitely be necessary if not for the opposite wall.

It also happens to be about as casual as towers really get. The approach is incredibly chill, all three pitches are pretty mellow (but awesome in their own way), and with two raps you’re back on the ground and psyched to do more climbing. Luckily, the equally chill (but less awesome) Flapjack Tower is right around the corner.

So, on a beautiful sunny Saturday in the San Rafael Swell, Jen and I ticked off both of them, making for one of the most pure-fun days of climbing I’ve had in a long time.

Haagenscholng Tower.
Jen stemming between the tower and the main cliff on the second pitch.
Third pitch bolt ladder (plus a few placements up high).
Jen on the jugs.
Heading down from the day’s first summit.
Murphy milking the shade.
Jen on her way to Flapjack Tower.
Looking down the lower section of the route.
Jen heading into the sandy upper half.
The last jam on the route before everything went to sandy crimps.
On top of the second tower, looking over at the first.
Headed down yet again.

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