It’s been several years since I’ve been to Yosemite, and every time I go there the list of things I want to climb there just gets longer and longer. So, when I had a chance to swing in for a quick three-day visit, I wanted to tick off a big one. The Rostrum has been at the top of my tick list for years, and this seemed like the perfect time to get on it.
With eight pitches of climbing up to 5.11c, this would be one of the tougher long routes I’d ever tried. It was clear that I should get into better shape, so of course I injured myself three weeks before the trip and ended up basically coming off the couch instead. After driving until midnight, sleeping beside the road, grabbing breakfast at the Mobil (if you know, you know) and cragging in the afternoon, Hunter and I woke up early the next morning and made our way to the base.
Our plan was for me to lead the first block of four pitches to the top of the crux, and then he would take over and do the second half. This would put the more technical climbing in my block, and when my out-of-shape ass started to get tired, Hunter could take over and do the wide stuff (which he has been doing a lot of lately).
So, we blasted off and everything went pretty smoothly. I thrashed my way through the first chimney, squeaked out the 10d down climb into the awesome 11a fingers on the second pitch, bumped a #3 forever on the never-ending third pitch, and felt great after onsighting the 11c crux on the fourth pitch.
Hunter was stoked when I handed over the sharp end of the rope, and I was sure we were headed to the top, but it was not to be. The 10d fifth pitch is exactly the kind of climbing that takes a super strong sport climber with relatively little trad experience (basically Hunter) and slaps them around. It’s steep, flaring, slick, and basically makes you feel like you don’t know how to climb. After hanging a bit, dropping a cam, and aiding through some moves, Hunter pulled onto the anchor and questioned his ability to continue.
Now, I would love to say that I manned up, followed the pitch, took the rack, and got us to the top. But that’s not what happened. I was wrecked. Following with our small pack, I was not able to send the pitch on top rope. My left arm was cramping at the elbow. And I wouldn’t know it until the next day, but I had also sprained my right index finger.
By the time I joined Hunter at the anchor, it was clear that I would not be saving the day. Instead, we had a short conversation and decided to bail. We were bummed, but it was definitely the right call.
For the next two days, I iced my finger, took a lot of Vitamin I, watched climbers on El Cap through the spotting scope, did some easy cragging, and eventually joined up with the rest of the BD crew to run a lap on Circuit Breaker, an awesome 11b finger-crack boulder problem. This, of course, was stupid, and certainly added some recovery time until I’ll be healed again. Then, I went home.
So, I basically drove 22 hours to the most amazing climbing location on earth and came away with nothing to show for it. And it was totally worth it. Those five pitches on The Rostrum were amazing, and it was great to go have an adventure with Hunter. I got to get on one of the most amazing pieces of rock I’ve ever seen and try so hard that my body shut down and didn’t want to play anymore. If that’s not a good time out, then I don’t know what is.
I can’t wait to come back and finish it off.
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