On the way back to Salt Lake from Ouray, Jen and I stopped in Moab for a couple days to enjoy some desert sun and dry out our perpetually wet van. Above town, up in
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Ouray is just on the other side of the mountain from Lake City, but you have to drive around about three hours to get between the two. Even though we climb there pretty much every
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After Canada, Jen and I drove south to Colorado, visiting a good friend and some fam on the way. Then we turned West and made our way to Lake City. I went ice climbing in
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After Bozeman, Jen and I headed North across the border, waited through a van search, drove through 50-foot visibility with random snowdrifts across the highway, and ended up in Canmore. The previous week it had
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Knowing that it was going to be far less comfortable than hanging out in the desert, Jen and I decided to head north and get in some ice climbing while the season was in full
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Ice is the glue that holds mountains together. Because so much of alpine climbing takes place on either snow or ice, the difficulty of a route (and even if it’s possible) depends a lot on
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For our first objective, Rick and I chose a North-facing couloir between Pollak Spire and Mt Neveragain. The aspect kept it out of the sun, giving it at least a chance at good snow. It
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Despite being extremely remote, the Alaska Range is also very popular. Common glacier-landing areas will usually have dozens of tents pitched near them, and it’s not uncommon to run into other parties on route—especially on
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I’ve climbed a handful of ice routes that are considered classic, but the Angel of Fear is the first thing I’ve been on with a legendary status. A few things contribute to this. In addition
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Cody is one of those places I’ve wanted to check out for a long time, but just never really got around to. So, when Matt brought up the idea I jumped on the chance to
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