I’ve climbed a handful of ice routes that are considered classic, but the Angel of Fear is the first thing I’ve been on with a legendary status. A few things contribute to this. In addition to hard climbing over three-dimensional formations and out roofs, and one of the coolest names ever, this route has only formed up four times in as many decades—1985, 1996, 2010, and miraculously this year as well.
When Rick and I got to the base we found a couple parties in front of us, and with only so many hours in the day we weren’t sure if we’d actually have a chance to get on it. Our friend Matt Oakley was ahead of us along with Bill Belcourt who did the FFA of the route in 1996. We chatted with them while Matt Tuttle and Nikki Smith sent the upper pitch, and then it was time for someone else to go.
Despite the fact that Bill had never met me before, he made two absolutely incredible offers when it was time to rope up. First, he offered to let Rick and I join them in a team of four to make sure everyone got to climb before it got dark.
Then… he offered me the lead on the crux pitch.
I’ll be honest. I really wanted to just let someone else take the sharp end and draft to the top. But, I knew that if I didn’t at least try I’d always regret it. So, with some prodding from Bill, Rick, and Matt, I started up the most intimidating pitch of ice I’d ever been on—and it was amazing.
After climbing over mushrooms, up the pillar, past the crack, and through the roof at the top, I made it to the plush ledge belay and brought up the other three. Bill lead the next pitch and took us to the rim. Then we sat on top listening to Belcourt tell old Alex Lowe stories and thinking about how lucky we were to have experienced something so rare.
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